For our second week, we will discuss the pet birds, from finches to larger parrots. There is some evidence parrots were kept as pets over a thousand years ago. “Cookie”, the world’s oldest parrot (a Major Mitchell’s cockatoo) died at the Brookfield Zoo in 2016 at the age of 83.
1. Rabbit Gastrointestinal Syndrome (RGIS):
3. Upper Respiratory Disease
What can be more fun that a silly baby ferret? For those of us with Ferret Fever, don’t forget your new purchase from the pet store is probably not fully vaccinated. Most pet store ferrets come from one or more commercial breeders who usually give baby ferrets the first of the required series of vaccines for distemper. Unless the pet store takes them to the vet for vaccines, the vaccine series is not complete. Also, only veterinarians can administer rabies vaccine, which is required by Indiana law for dogs cats and ferrets. If the pet store says the vaccines are all up to date, ask for proof of vaccination. And if you are not sure, give us a call and we will help you find out if your new baby is really protected. Don’t forget the Ferret 500 is coming up May 5th! For more information go here: www.theferret500.com
Story by Dawn Sailer
Easter is a very challenging time of the year for companion rabbit lovers and animal welfare advocates (https://rabbit.org/easter-and-rabbits-do-not-mix/). Each year the market is flooded with cute, fuzzy baby “Easter” bunnies. And each year when the rabbits hit sexual maturity approximately 2-3 months later, disillusioned rabbit owners surrender their rabbits to animal shelters. Rabbits are the third most commonly surrendered animal to US shelters (https://rabbit.org/rabbits-in-shelters-findings/). Each year, rescue groups (https://rabbit.org/independent-rabbit-rescue/) work tirelessly to save “the Easter Dump” rabbits.
If you see a cute baby “Easter” bunny, please consult the “Make Mine Chocolate” website (http://makeminechocolate.org/mission) to see if a rabbit is the right pet for you. If a rabbit is a good fit for your family, please obtain a rabbit from a shelter or rescue organization (same url as above).
Story by Brie Worrell
Many people do not know what an RVT or Registered Veterinary Technician is and what they do on a daily basis. An RVT is comparable to a nurse in human medicine. The daily tasks of an RVT include: taking histories on patients that come in for exams, setting up patients in the hospital to make sure they are comfortable, drawing blood from patients, medicating/performing treatments on patients, taking radiographs, filling medications, setting the patient up for surgery, monitoring them during surgery, and recovering the patient after surgery. At our clinic, there are several different positions our RVTs can fill each day including Surgery, Recovery, and Appointment Tech roles. Today, we are going to highlight the last couple of tasks that a Surgery Tech performs almost on a daily basis.
A surgery tech starts the day by making sure that all patients who have a procedure scheduled that day are set up in their holding cages and are comfortable. They then discuss the schedule of the day with the surgeon and decide what order the patients go in. After the first patient is selected, the tech sets up the surgery table with all of the supplies needed for the procedure from the drape to keep the table clean to the sterile surgery instruments for the procedure. They receive the sedation drugs from the recovery tech and sedate the patient. Once the patient is sedate, the tech preps the patient for surgery by taking radiographs if needed, drawing blood for blood work, placing a catheter, intubating the patient (placing an endotracheal tube down the patient’s airway so that the tech can breathe for the patient during the procedure), shaving and cleaning the surgery site, administering a pain block around the surgery site, and placing monitoring equipment on the patient. The monitoring equipment helps the tech monitor the patient’s heart rate, breathing rate, blood oxygenation, CO2 levels, temperature, and blood pressure.
Once all of this is complete and the tech is happy with the patient’s status, the surgeon enters the surgery suite and performs the procedure. During the procedure the tech is constantly keeping track of all of the patient’s vitals and making adjustments as needed. The tech is running the anesthetic gas administered to the patient the entire time and makes adjustments to levels whenever needed making sure the patient is at a quality level of anesthesia. They also open any sterile instruments the surgeon requires throughout the procedure.
Once the procedure is finished, the tech wakes the patient up by stopping the anesthetic gas and administering oxygen to help the patient wake up smoothly. Once the patient is starting to wake up, they extubate (remove the endotracheal tube from the patient’s airway) to allow the patient to fully breathe on their own. They make sure the patient is clean and dry from the procedure and able to fully function on their own before leaving the surgical suite. They take the patient back to the hospital and hand them off to the recovery tech who wakes them up the rest of the way and monitors the patient till they go home. The surgical tech then has to clean/sterilize the surgical instruments and surgical suite before repeating the process for the rest of the procedures throughout the day.
At the end of the day, when patients go home, the surgical technician takes the patient to the client and lets the client know how the procedure went, what to expect as the patient recovers at home, and demonstrates how to medicate the patient if medications are sent home. They then deep clean the surgical suite from top to bottom and re-sterilizes all of the remaining surgical instruments used throughout the day.
It is a full day for a surgical technician but one that is fulfilling! Seeing the patients go home at the end of the day with a medical problem resolved is a great feeling.
We look forward to sharing more about what our hospital staff does each day for the care and health of our patients!
This little Chinese Water Dragon went for a car ride to come see us recently. Since it’s safest for him and all other pets to travel in secure carriers and we require all pets to be contained in the waiting room, he came to the clinic in the best carrier his owners had on hand. To make him comfortable, his owners put in a nice fleece blanket and something to hide in. However, when he arrived at the clinic and his carrier was opened, he was missing! We quickly called his owners. They carefully checked their car and found him hiding out. Luckily, there was no harm done and he did well for his visit. Next time, we’re sure he will come in a carrier with much smaller bars! Are you unsure about what kind of carrier your exotic pet needs? We have seen just about EVERYTHING, so we can always let you know what works best! Give us a call and we would be happy to give you some recommendations!
The answer to this question depends on who you ask! The official answer from the United Egg Producers Animal Husbandry Guidelines for US Egg Laying Flocks, 2017 edition states 67-86 square inches of usable space per bird. These figures were established after research to determine what amount of space is large enough to reduce obvious stress behaviors, but small enough to keep egg production costs reasonable for consumers.Since pet poultry owners usually choose to emphasize cozy surroundings and environmental enrichment over costs associated with egg production, we recommend much more space per bird. Many hobby sites recommend 3 ft/bird in the enclosure, and minimum 10 ft/bird in the outdoor run. This sounds like a reasonable option. Here are a few more considerations:
- The cute ready-made coops you see online look great with a few chicks in them. However, once the chicks are full grown, they are usually way too small. Be sure the space reflects the size of the ADULT birds, and not the chicks.
- Even the most peaceful hens will establish a pecking order (this is actually where that expression is from!). Lower ranking hens need to be able to avoid the boss hens, and need enough space to be able to do just that.
- The ideal coop is well ventilated and easy to clean. If it’s tough to get in there and remove the mess, most people avoid doing it. We recommend emphasizing ability to clean over style and beauty of the coop.
- Most infectious diseases we see in pet poultry happen after owners buy birds from multiple sources, pick up birds at auctions, or fail to buy vaccinated birds. For the least chance of having an infectious disease in your flock, buy all birds from a “closed” hatchery, pay a little to have them vaccinated, and resist the temptation to add birds from any other sources.
The Indiana State Board of Health has great resources for both poultry producers and pet poultry enthusists. Go here: https://www.in.gov/boah/2721.htm <%22> We especially like the links on biosecurity, and a free program where you can have your flock’s eggs tested for diseases such as Salmonella.
Questions on pet poultry? Call us!
Fire preparedness is important for EVERYONE, but have you thought about a special plan for your exotic pets? We had a conversation with Nina Powell, Deputy Fire Marshall for the Pike Township Fire Department, and asked her advice. Specifically, we asked:
- Are those little window stickers that alert fire fighters to the presence of pets REALLY helpful? Will fire fighters look at them and try to find the pets?
- What if the pet is something unfamiliar and a little unusual, for example, a SNAKE? Will fire fighters rescue pets like that?
Nina assured us that the stickers are useful, and as long as the humans residents are safe, and fire fighters aren’t putting themselves and others in danger, they will make an effort to get pets safely out. She recommends using large stickers, and placing them prominently on both the front and rear doors right where they will be clearly visible. She laughed at our question about rescuing snakes-but quickly replied that all pets are important and special.
However, there are some things exotic pet owners can do that will really help fire fighters in these situations. We think her advice is excellent:
- Have carriers for each pet ready and easily visible, for example tucked under the cage or right next to it.
- Place a laminated instruction sheet on each carrier identifying and describing the pet, and any tips someone unfamiliar with that species would find useful. We made a couple of examples here:
So where do you get window/door stickers specifically for exotic pets? You can have them custom printed, or we’ve made a large stack of them; pick yours up any time during clinic hours.
Stickers are $2.00 and proceeds go towards the Veterinary Care Charitable Fund: https://www.vccfund.org/forms/donation-form/?ref=661&company=Avian%20and%20Exotic%20Animal%20Clinic
Nina also reminds us to check smoke detectors regularly and have an escape plan that all families know and have practiced! See this fun link where kids can help in the planning process: https://www.nfpa.org/~/media/files/public-education/campaigns/fire-prevention-week/fpw17/fpw17escapeplangrid.pdf
Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic loves exotic animal rescues. We work closely with Indiana House Rabbit Society (IHRS) http://www.indianahrs.org/ and Exotic Animal Pet Rescue and Sanctuary (EARPS) http://earps.org/. Today we would like to tell you about a rescue we love a little further from home, the Gabriel Foundation https://thegabrielfoundation.org/ in Colorado. Dr. Lennox has had the opportunity to visit and volunteer on several occasions, and the facility and staff, and their dedication to parrot welfare is exceptional. The quality of enrichment and access to beautiful spacious outdoor aviaries are just a few of the things we like about the Gabriel Foundation.
Like all rescues, the Gabriel Foundation struggles with so many birds and limited resources. The foundation is in the midst of transferring 44 birds from another rescue in Pennsylvania to their home in Colorado. The Lafeber Company has agreed to match donations, up to $5000.00 for the next few weeks. Join us in helping the newcomers settle into their new home.
We bid a fond farewell to 2017, which brought about a lot of great changes for our clinic, some wonderful stories, and some loss. We welcomed two new residents, and saw two AEAC doctors become board certified exotic specialists! We had our Open House for the Avian and Exotic Inn, and much more. Here are some of our staff’s fondest memories of the year:
“Buddy” the chinchilla who chewed on an electrical cord and suffered some disfiguring burns and was hospitalized for treatment. We warned her owner about the severity of the wounds, but when we presented her back to her owner, he immediately told her she looked beautiful!
“Peanut” the guinea pig who was diagnosed with a rare genetic bone disease that is considered untreatable…..actually improve and do very well with a simple miraculous cure-a UV light!
Our elderly cockatiel friend “Sammy” who after a very difficult surgery kept calling to Brie from the incubator, and then spent an hour and a half with her singing and preening and eating treats!
- Sunday, Christmas Eve
- Monday, Christmas Day
- Tuesday, December 26th
We will reopen on Wednesday, December 27th at 8 AM.
We will be closed Monday, New Year’s Day, and reopen Tuesday, January 2nd, at 8 AM.
If you wish, you can leave us a message for a call back next business day. If you have an emergency with your pet that cannot wait until the clinic reopens, call the general clinic number for instructions on how to reach the doctor on call.
We hope Santa is good and brings wonderful things to you and your pets! And best wishes for a wonderful 2018!
EARPS and Indiana House Rabbit Society have their wonderful Christmas gifts and baskets designed to provide fun and enrichment, and raise funds for our exotic animals rescues! Here are a few of the goodies we have available:
- Christmas Tree Enrichment Toys for shredding
- Holiday Hammocks for rats and ferrets
- Treat ornaments for rabbits and rodents
- ……and more!
The staff was surprised to see a commercial trash truck pull into the parking lot across the street from the clinic, and the driver rush in carrying a box of birds. The driver had found the wild birds trapped in sticky goo, and left in a box along with the trash to throw away. The driver risked his job to take the truck off the route to get the birds help! Cleaning them up was no easy task! Each bird was sedated, cleansed, rinsed and dried. The whole process took the better part of an hour and the the birds rested quietly overnight in a warm incubator while they dried. The next day, our amazing bird rehabbers Liz and Chris Hatton came and picked them up. They report that these little guys have made a full recovery, were released, and still visit their feeders occasionally!
Mini pigs make great pets, no doubt about that! For those wishing to add a pet pig to the household (or barnyard), remember it’s buyer beware! ALL baby pigs are small! Some unscrupulous breeders sell baby pigs far younger than recommended so they look small, but hide the fact they will be much larger than grown. Remember that a miniature pig is not full grown until 5 years of age and a healthy adult miniature pig should weigh between 40-120 lbs, depending on the breed. If the breeder says that your pig will be smaller than that, they are either misleading you or selling an unhealthy pig. How can you be sure your mini pig stays mini?
- Check the references of the breeder, and ask to talk with other buyers and possibly visit their pigs. Avoid breeders who won’t get put you in contact with other buyers.
- Ask to see the parents. Of course, you could always be shown other pigs who are not the parents, but if the breeder hesitates or declines, walk away. Again, remember that pigs are not fully grown until 5 years of age and can be bred well before that, so the parents may not be fully grown yet either!
- Never buy a bottle fed or pre-weaned pig; these animals are at higher risk for medical and behavioral problems. Only buy pigs that are completely weaned and eating solid food well.
- NEVER buy the runt; this actually goes for any species! (This doesn’t mean we don’t love rescuing them!)
- Only buy pets from breeders with a health guarantee, and bring your new pig for a health check up as soon as possible after purchase. If your pig has not been spayed or neutered before purchase, it is very important to arrange the surgery while they are still relatively small, as surgery is generally cheaper and recovery is faster when pigs are still small. We recommend spaying all pet pigs for medical and behavioral reasons.
Remember pot belly pigs should eat commercial food designed for pet pigs, never for farm pigs. Avoid obesity and all the secondary health problems by never feeding your pig from the table, and only offering healthy vegetables and some fruits for treats. Free range pigs allowed to graze and get exercise are almost always the healthiest!
Pigs are very smart and can develop behavior problems if not properly trained and enriched. While many owners find this to be the best part of owning a pig, it can be a lot of work and isn't for everyone. We offer free pre-purchase consults for all new pet-owners and we strongly recommend that you come meet with us BEFORE you purchase your pig to make sure that you are prepared to provide everything she needs to live a long and happy life!
Since the arrival of the beautiful Natural Encounters macaws at the Indianapolis Zoo, we’ve had some inquiries on whether or not our pet birds should be given the opportunity to fly. Firstly, flying free like the zoo bird is not safe for pet birds, and requires skilled trainers and many, many hours of flight training. We do not recommend allowing your pet to free fly outdoors at all.
However, many of our pets can benefit from limited free flight in a safe indoor environment, like a special large flight cage, or a room devoted to flight. The flight area must be safe and free of moving obstacles, sources of toxins and large windows that might look like a place to fly if the bird gets spooked.
It’s also important to remember that not all birds are good fliers. Some did not get the opportunity to learn while young, and may be fearful at the prospect. Some can be gradually taught, but some are never comfortable.
And of course, birds whose wings are not trimmed are always a ‘flight risk” should they accidentally escape outdoors, so special vigilance is required.
If there is not a safe place for your bird to fly, the bird is safer with a wing trim.
Want to find out more about safe limited flight for pet birds, and whether a wing trim is the best choice for your bird? Give us a call. Another excellent resource is here:http://www.goodbirdinc.com/
We had a recent call asking if anyone had found a lost adult sulcata tortoise. (These tortoises can grow very large and strong and are good at escaping from outdoor enclosures.) Last week we saw a young ferret for a check up after he escaped outdoors for several days. Every year we get calls from people who find lost parrots. Besides being very careful about maintaining a secure enclosure, what else can exotic pet owners do? Many can’t “wear” ID like a tag on a dog collar. However, nearly very exotic pet can get a microchip (yes, reptiles and birds too!).
We scan every lost pet that good Samaritans bring in for check ups, or who are brought in by one of our partner rescues. If there’s a chip, we have a place to start to reunite the lost pet with the owner.
Thinking about a microchip for your exotic pet? Give us a call and we will go over the entire process.
It can make all the difference in keeping your bird healthy! One of the most common scenarios we see at the clinic is disease in a flock that occurs a short time after adding new birds; in every case, good Biosecurity principles were not followed. Do you know how to quarantine your birds? (It’s may be trickier than you think). Do you know how long you should quarantine a new bird? How about how long to quarantine after a bird comes back from a bird show?
Find out everything you need to know in this terrific downloadable guide here.